United States and worldwide cafe review

Food Club: The sublime dance of the fire Ljubomir Stanisic in Comporta

Is the warning: Nothing in this text supersedes the requirement of living, with all the senses, this experience.

The end of the afternoon, in the garden restaurant in the hotel Sublime Comporta. A circular space (a bench that is working and also serves of the board), protected by a network, with a grill Ofyr to the center . The side here, 12 guests. On the side there, three cooks, or better, in this first experience, two heads and a specialist in herbs. Objective: to present a biological kitchen, from give herbs and garden vegetables, and meats, fish and seafood of the region, and powered only by the power of fire. Or, more poetic: “An activation absolute of the senses. Surrounded by the four elements – Earth, fire, air and water. The chief cause of the senses with flavors, sounds, smells. We interact in a primitive form and without masks, all under the stars in the sky of the alentejo”, as explained by the mentors of this project’s bold and unexpected. The actors in this first experiment, named “Food Club” are Ljubomir Stanisic, owner and chef of the restaurants 100 Ways and, since a month ago, also the head consultant of the Sublime Comporta hotel restaurant, now called “No Door”, Manuel Maldonado, responsible for the project Ostraria, and Grace Hail, the company’s founder Herb, who gave birth in the grounds of this hotel, a Garden, Gastronomic Biological.

Seems confusing, but the more important thing is to free the mind of preconceptions, occupy one of the seats and enjoy the dance of the fire tamed with mastery by the three chefs of the night. The dishes, infusions, wines (various crop Ljubomir) will come to the table (such a counter-circular) in a cadence of its own, always served by the chefs and always explained calmly. The conversations will be released, accelerating or peace to the sound of the soundtrack (it is an experience for all the senses, remember?) prepared in detail by Ljubomir Stanisic and guests. This is not the Ljubomir of the TV you loose the vernacular and destroys the restaurant. This is the Ljubomir looking for the purity and simplicity of the land, the chief who, barefoot, kitchen, and vibrates with every moment of this concept in which its own presence is not a certainty, but rather a surprise. This night is, tomorrow may not be. Guaranteed, is the chief guest along of the five dinners, each month, put the Sublime Comporta, on the route of the best dining experiences that take place in Portugal.

Throughout the evening are served tasting menus inspired in the earth and in the vision of each chef. In the first week of this “Food Club”, Manuel Maldonado and Ljubomir Stanisic, with the precious support and knowledge of Grace, Hail had a total of 14 gastronomic moments absolutely sublime , and, why not, of teaching, with the products to be served to the natural, many harvested minutes before, the other worked by the fire, live and without a net. Aromas, textures, flavours and visual impact followed by each proposal, to the surprise of the 12 elected from each night. For future memory are dishes such as grape Leaves Muscat with Azeitão cheese and wasabi; Oysters, the mass of the sludge and tagetes, Shrimp, listed with oil from the heads and lardo pork black crispy; French Garlic, miso almond and levístico; Santo António: peppers and tomatoes as Lisbon like; or Secret, celery and marrow.

Recalling the initial warning, that nothing in this text supersedes the requirement of living, with all the senses, this experience, know that the next few bosses invited to the “Food Club” are Rodrigo Castle, the Tavern, O Desk, from 31 July to 4 August, with the guarantee of the presence of several fish of the river; and João Rodrigues, of the multi-award-winning restaurant Feitoria, in Lisbon, from 11 to 15 September, in which the “Matter” will mark the menu to display. Limited to 12 people, access to this experience costs €125, with wine included.

Remember that the Sublime Comporta (EN 261-1, Muda. Tel. 269 449 376) was awarded by the edition 2017 of the Guide Good Bed Good Table, with a Gold Key, that distinguishes the best hotels in Portugal. In the restaurant Without a Door (the old Barn), which has as “head chef” Salt Kayhan, the dinner try to “transpose to the plate a concern with the world, while respecting the values of locality, sustainability, seasonality”. So, arrive at the table the flavors of the region, with sea, river and land, as Head of Xara with pickles homemade mousse and coriander (€12) or Avocado and roasted and blessed (€13), in the entries, and red Mullet with mashed cauliflower, mousse of herbs and the juice of the sea (€32), Tataki beef matured with egg and bearnês (€31) and pork Cheek with pureed celery, asparagus and broth of red wine (€21). Because the dam is the land of rice, you can count with several presentations: Snapper with rice lime and chlorophyll, roe trout (€28), Rice, fish and seafood (€60 / two people) and Rice-sweet vanilla ice-cream avocado and pear confit (€8). For dessert, delight yourself with a refreshing Marriage of alentejo: tomato & cheese (€8).

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