United States and worldwide cafe review

Henrique Sá Pessoa gives new “Soul” to the menu coast-to-Coast

If a year ago you asked if the Soul was a candidate for the Michelin star Henrique Sá Pessoa would say no. However he won it, and although you may not feel more pressed than usual to overcome the quality that we have become accustomed too, the head ensures that the next two years are going to be tuning in the kitchen and in the living room, in an organic way, to understand what must be done to return to the podium of the international guide. The new menu coast to Coast (€100), says the boss, can be a strong candidate for the victory. And is it fair if so.

Are five dishes exclusively of fish on a tasting menu that will more than pay homage to the raw material excellence of the Portuguese coast, assumes a responsibility to disseminate the national products and the traditional cuisine through an approach more thin and refined, with suggestions unlikely and rare to find in a restaurant of fine dinning.

Example of this are the fillets of sardines that now complement the menu in a combination that joins eggplant and roasted peppers, bread dry and mayonnaise paprika smoked. For those who come from other parts of the world it is difficult to realize that a large part of the spines of this fish melt during the cooking and which still remain in the dish can easily be eaten without ceremony. It’s not about not wanting to remove them before serving, it is only because to do so would risk the soundness of the fillet. Things here our, that must always have prior explanation.

The squids are the other addition of weight to the squad from the coast, this time accompanied by a stew of beans that if doubts there were, it is one of the ingredients more Portuguese than there are. Henrique Sá Pessoa admits that already will there is a (much-needed) change of chip in the high cuisine of the Portuguese and that the concern of the use of domestic products is increasingly a priority of the heads.

From the “coast to Coast” Restaurant Alma, vieira is a single element of the exotic, the pair some spices required to broths as well established. Of the rest, you can count on gamba from the coast (that is included with a broth that should be drunk at the end), a dish of salted cod smoked-inspired by the classic escachada cod and the see of the Azores, still rare in these parts, and that here accompanies with a creamy rice of clams.

To finish, the ice cream of basil provides in equal doses, the freshness and sweetness perfect to end the meal. Advises the suggestion of harmonization of the sommelier for a complete experience.

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