United States and worldwide cafe review

High cuisine, relaxed in the Euskalduna Studio, Vasco Coelho Santos

Previous point: do you really have to make a reservation. In the restaurant of porto Euskalduna Studio, led by chef Vasco Coelho Santos, there are only 16 seats, divided among the tables and a counter. And are almost always fully booked. This restaurant is the “open path” to haute cuisine with relaxed, of great demand, but without the rigidity of an “orchestrated”. The magic happens at the counter, without filters, in front of the client, and the client participates in the experience.

Before you give life to this restaurant, which won in 2018, for the first time, the Fork of the Silver of the Guide Good Bed Good Table, Vasco Coelho Santos travelled through Portugal and Spain, where he worked with chefs such as Olivier Costa , José Avillez, Andoni Aduriz, Arzak and Ferran Adrià, and by the various countries of Europe and Asia. He returned to Port and started the project Euskalduna, specializing in private dinners. In December 2016, opens the Euskalduna Studio, where it serves a tasting menu for €80, with 10 moments and a few surprises. Can be harmonised with pairings of wines, presented in a lightweight and natural.

The open, two snacks without “fireworks”: the Root of chervil, a tuber something forgotten, and Speak trás-os-montes. Typically, “mothers require to eat the soup” and, therefore, the Euskalduna also had to serve broths. In the summer, can be cold, such as the Sardine with watermelon. The menu is included with the micro stations, and there are suggestions that change weekly. The following is a Tagliatelle of Squid and fennel rolled. To make the dashi stock, used katsuobushi, a pickled dried tuna bonito, own production: it is beautiful, clean, cooked, despinhado, dried, smoked and fermented until they transform into a unit which “can last for ten years.” Blade at the moment.

The Shrimp never left the scene. Serve them raw, with cream heads only policeman, salad of mango and apple with a touch of chilliand even curry only policeman cold. This dance of textures and flavors-something “disguised”, with peaks of acidity and sweetness, “is a mixture of funny”, says the boss. Between the cups and too many fingers in the conversation side, a succession of dishes at a good pace, and the communication with the team. This explains why the first break is, in fact, a dish extra. And that this Mullet does not come from polluted rivers, but of the sea. Inspired by the Fataça in the Tile, Santarém – which is served in restaurants such as the Tavern O-Counter, takes marinade powder, salsa and jus of veal.

The Mackerel comes the cold, contrasting with a foam hot is made with egg whites, sugar and gin Portuguese. To swing with the freshness and acidity of the gin, and add to it the bitterness of the cucumber. All this combination “unnerved people” and it pleases the Vasco Coelho Santos, who likes to play with the senses and the textures. Already the Fish-Cock is very consensual: fried in a tempura as well “Portuguese”, but using a technique asian that mitigates the crispy and the flour. This head is not indifferent to the environment that surrounds them, nor to the route of the family. Both shoots the Corvina to the coal, remember the grids of Matosinhos, as it pays homage to the grandmother, stuffing the tail for six hours in pots of clay, as she always did. So much goes back to the past, as follows in front of, cooking Pork loin at low temperature.

In the second “pause”, it appears that a basket full of citrus fruits. Is to pick up, feel, scratch and smell. And ask that if you want to. On a weekly basis, Euskalduna Studio (Rua de Santo Ildefonso, 404. Tel. 935 335 301) arrives in a basket different from the Place of Look Happyin the Alentejo, where they produce more than 270 types of citrus fruit. Of all extracts, the potential of the bark, to make the delicious pre-dessert. Vasco admits: “fanatic” by the Famous Dom. Displays your version, using different techniques, but preserving the flavors of the traditional sweet in the algarve. Must mix it all to best take advantage of this sin and still save room for the petit-fours, in that divine ingredients unlikely.


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