In the Mouth of the Wolf: the new tasca José Júlio Vintém
Who if you to the path heading to the Serra de São Mamede with the idea gluttony of attacking the nozzles of the angry bull and the sardines albardadas with bread and coriander of the Tomba Lobos, you know that, for now, and until order to the contrary, will it hit with the nose with the door.
To the question as relevant to what will be the future of the restaurant is José Júlio Vintém, we do not know to answer with precision, but to announce the good news to which the bought by the owner of the house: “it is not a locking permanent, hence the nothing we are back”.
But don’t worry dear reader, that this is one of those cases that have been closed a door, quickly opened a window instead.
Following the line of the house-mother, a strong advocate of the good gastronomy of the alentejo, the brand emblematic of the chief ends to extend to the sympathetic In the Mouth of the Wolf, a tavern-modern without pretention, which opened its doors on 1 August in the centre of Portalegre. The room is small, modest and decorated with taste, without to exceed in the shop window of traditional parts of the region. Tables and chairs wood color, a few blankets Reguengos on the wall, a desk equipped with a collection of knives to draw and is made to the house. José Júlio Vintém is little to see – is back there, in the kitchen, where is the magic of custom. Faithful to the cuisine of the pan and the homemade seasoning, announced this At the Mouth of the Wolf as “the tavern of the alentejo petals and snacks”, but already here we said, somewhere, that the concept of a snack in the Alentejo, is something that the rest of the country is the equivalent dose and a half, almost always enough to feed two mouths able.
Reserve a table for a Friday lunch without imagining that we would find the house full, counter full and a small gathering of resistant to the door, confident that at least “one person alone to occupy a whole table” if despachasse the time and hours. Dining solo has these things: first of all, there is nothing nice, and then always end up screwing up a table that could sit three or four. The bones of the craft, that’s not what they say?
Well, we took a look at the menu and the impossibility of choosing just two dishes, we leave the decision in the hands of the head… with a caveat: “doses little, to sting, that following there is still road to do”. Nothing happened of it.
First, to entertain, came to the table a platter of bacon salt with garlic (€3,50), which was followed by a “saucer” which was a plate of folded (€6,25). We could have stayed there, but the chief warned that were still to come, a dose of braised pork belly, one of the specialties of the house, and a breaded fried rabbit with honey (€11,50).
Needless to say that got us in big, big effort, I do not know before the shoot the meal with boleima de maçã (€1,20) made by the mother of the chief. We were able to eat half and what was left came wrapped in a napkin and served as a snack a couple of hours later.
For now, and while it does not decide the future of the Tomba Lobos, it is here, At the Mouth of the Wolf (Rua Alexandre Herculano 20, Portalegre. Tel. 965 416 630), José Júlio Vintém is going to continue to democratize the typical food of the alentejo, this time on a record even more family-friendly and democratic.
The restaurant closes Sunday and Monday and it is advisable always to reserve, whether at lunch or dinner.
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