“A dish can be very beautiful, but if you do not know well…” This sentence could end up with a “there are no miracles” or “there is no way to save”, but Vera Silva, the chief executive, who has just taken charge of the kitchen of the Amphora, the restaurant of the hotel the Governor’s Palace, in Lisbon, prefers to leave the idea on hold – perhaps for the conclusion to be obvious.
Unpretentious, honest, and with a dose of rare humility, Vera Silva, not had much time to prepare the new charter of the winter of the restaurant, but when it came to the proposal began to trace the path that I wanted to follow: “First the taste, then everything else”. And so it was. Inspired by the history of the palace, which was the former residence of the governor of the Tower of Belém, used the best national products to “write” a story of princesses and princes at the table, as the classic fairy tales, also begins with “once upon a time”. Eyes on the Tagus, which flows peacefully on the other side of the street, the meal travels by textures, harmonious and unlikely combinations of flavours, such as if () test in the Scallops on noisette with mashed cauliflower and chips cupita (€18), chouriço alentejano here transformed into a carpaccio, crispy and vibrant, which contrasts with the simplicity of the clam.
The preference for the products of the station, the essential basis for the cuisine balanced and healthy Vera Silva defends and dominates, it serves as a guideline to the remaining proposals of the menu, from the Fish-cock on a velvety xerém bulhão Pato (€20), passing through the Thigh of duck confit with sweet potato and vegetable glace (€17) and the Cheeks of bísaro in cuscos has the singer of the smokehouse (€16), which honors with distinction of the culinary tradition of the north of the country.
Ends-if the experience in the restaurant Amphora (Hotel Palace of the Governor, Rua Bartolomeu Dias, 117, Lisbon. Tel. 212 467 800), in double dose, that happened due to the impossibility to choose just one dessert. “Out of Bethlehem, and Coffee, pastel de nata let us have faith” (€6), which is like the one who says, a reinterpretation of the dual pastel de nata and coffee, which arrive at the table merged in one, and flavoured with essential cinnamon and with a “smell”. We could have stayed here were it not for the challenge of learning how to, after all, was the dessert “Chocolate” (€9), which appear as well, so directly, leaves no guess what here comes. In reality, this is the dish more fotogénico of the station, and also the most happy, since it combines in the same dish a return to childhood, with gums, marshmallows and peta zetas, in an explosion of colors, textures and flavors winning.
Soon, Vera Silva prepares to premiere two tasting menus of six and eight moments, between a selection of the proposals of the charter. Until then, promises a winter of compliment to the flavors of typical Portuguese and very good food of comfort.
Frame-if the décor of the room came out of the creativity of Nini Andrade Silva, who knew how to elegantly interpret the history and location of the hotel and the restaurant. With a clear inspiration in the discoveries and in the patterns of the tiles of the national, the Amphora presents itself as a placeholder, full of history, where reigns the elegance and the description.
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