Restaurant Commander Silva: I miss the Brazil of Portugal

The restaurant Comendador Silva is a kind of CPLP (Community of Portuguese Language Countries) of the restoration. Let’s see: The owner is brazilian, his chef de cuisine, was born in Benguela (Angola) and the dishes are inspired as well as Portuguese. In addition, the location, in Lisbon, the center of this world lusophone…

Explaining… The name Aguinaldo Silva may not mean much to many Portuguese. In the same way that many recognize. Aguinaldo Silva is the author of some of the most famous soap opera in brazil in the Globe and that also made a success in Portugal, Roque Sculptor to Tieta, Untamed the Empire, the more recent. It was also Aguinaldo Silva, who oversaw the first novel coproduzida between Globo and SIC: Blood Ties.

Living between Portugal and Brazil, Aguinaldo Silva, awarded in your country with the insignia of the Order of Cultural Merit, never hid his passion for gastronomy and, with all the naturalness, for the good Portuguese flavors. And, in this context, the new Commander Silva is not his first adventure into the world of national of the restoration. Just remember, the spaces Avenue, where he shone Marlene Vieira, and Brasileiríssimo, where he served Napoleon Silva, the head chef, who returned to the world of Aguinaldo Silva to lead the restaurant Comendador Silva (Rua Latino Coelho, 50, Lisbon. Tel. 215 816 246). Born in the city of angola from Benguela, the young chief went through various kitchens, with the last experience next to the sea, in the Fortaleza do Guincho. All the influences absorbed now in a letter descomplexada, without any major gimmicks technicians, that bet on the quality of the products and the (good) naturalness of their flavors. Dishes with contemporary presentation and one or the other appointment that ensures attention to the trends. The strengthening of this portugal, is clear in the strand seafood restaurant, with the right tank and a simplified form of the price. The clams are sold to the unit, and can be prepared to the taste of every shopper. Oysters (€3,50), Tiger Prawns medium (€17,50), Crab (€20), spider crab (€25), Lobster (€60) and Lobster (€65) are options to consider.

The charter of this new Commander Silva (there is another one in Óbidos, installed in the Casa das Senhoras Rainhas) starts with a dozen entries, which are also snacks to share and encourage socializing. Highlights include the Chorizo on the grill pickles homemade olives (€7), the game Sausage on the grill, apple cider, Port and honey (€9,50), the fried Cuttlefish, the lemon, and the little owl, spicy (€9), Octopus Salad with sweet potato and finely chopped algarve (€7,50), and the Clams to the Commander (Bolhão Pato), accompanied by great toast garlic and also to the part, the sauce of the mussels with a few drops of spicy. Before you can appreciate an interesting butter sausage the bar in three types of bread: Mafra, Carob beans, and corn Bread.

On to the main dishes respect the letter of the restaurant Comendador Silva tries to show the best that exists in Portugal, between the earth and the sea. The Octopus is served with cauliflower, sauce, romanesco, and squash (€14) and the obligatory Cod with mashed chickpeas and turnip greens (€16,50). After, you can count on a comforting Cataplana Rich (€35 for two people) and the intensive Rice of the Sea (€30, two people), which like the previous dish can also be prepared in individual doses. Such as the new times require, the chief of Napoleon Silva has developed a striking (and vegetarian), Rice (seeds) creamy beet purple and mushrooms of the season (€13,50). Every day except Sunday which is rest day, the kitchen makes a suggestion the fish of the day, fixed only in the price (€15,50) and cooking “to taste” of each one. In meats, the bet wins in the Empty of veal, mashed potatoes, mushrooms and kale-brussels (€16,50). By prove, were the tempting Loin pork, xerém de razor and pak-choi (€19,50), and Rack of Lamb, mashed beans and mashed mint (€17).

In desserts, the chef of the restaurant Commander Silva risks in the various reinterpretations of the sweets of classical Portuguese, as the Pudding Abade regional egg, applesauce and ice cream Port Wine (€6) and the greedy Pão-de-ló de chocolate warm, supported, part, by icy mint and fruits of the forest (€7). The wine list is growing and in good hands, with a dozen offerings by the glass. It should be noted that there is still a bar, for those who prefer two fingers of conversation loose and a private room on the lower floor of the restaurant.

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