Restaurant Fishing: Diogo Noronha, the sea and the Portuguese
There is something extremely national, a kind of Portuguese hidden, at the Restaurant, Fishing, the new project of Diogo de Noronha, in the middle of Bairro Alto in Lisbon. There is no doubt that the ground to imitate the floors old of the taverns of the neighborhood and the counter run in dark tones help to compose this idea. The courtyard, where part of the dining room at the rear, extends further this image, surrounded by balconies almost as intimate as clothing extended to the sun and the plants cared for in small vessels.
The window to the Street of the Polytechnic School, within the bar, it helps to give an air bairrista to the Restaurant Fishing. Opens the house to the outside and turns out to be a point of contact and up to a visit card of the space, functioning as a bar for an aperitivo before crossing the door. It also gives you the opportunity to meet Fernão Gonçalves, the creative genius behind the shaker and of oysters, which was not limited to open bottles and went to the kitchen to fetch peppers, carrots and peas to the cocktails of the author.
The tap differentiator of the Restaurant Fishing starts as soon, as you can see, at the counter of the entry. The Oysters serve as the entrance, served the“natural” (€3), with “pearls of mirin, sauce, soy and coriander” (€4), “with water of cucumber, lemon confi, and salicórnea” (€4) or “with foie gras, beet, and pepper sechuan”. A visual treat any of the proposals, perfect if harmonised, for example, with a “margarita with salt seaweed”, which takes tequila olmeca altos plata, liqueur, dry curacao, and syrup of agave (€10), or with the phenomenal “zombie mexican with peppers and malagueta”, a subtle blend of Fernão Gonçalves de mezcal del maguey vida and tequila ocho silver (€14).
At the time of entering the room, it is impossible to stop to observe the harmony in the kitchen move, with Diogo Noronha in the command. Nélio Mendes, deputy chief, and the right arm, with Claiton Ferreira in front of the pastries, are extensions of the head, the most visible faces of this project that stands out for its daring and creativity. Barely reaches the menu, it jumps to the view, in addition to the natural extension of this took all that has been said, a whole concept based on sustainability and on the roots of the head, which was vegetarian and vegan for several years, and who decided on this project more than a proclamation, applying a philosophy and a style of life that is sustainable and friendly to the environment. Surrounded himself with a handful of small producers that ensure, to the first letter that offers more than fresh produce, the perfect way to complement the idea and the design of the menu of the head. A work accomplished after many conversations loose, experiences, several, and various tweaks.
The letter from the Restaurant Fishing features seven entries, eight main dishes and five desserts. In the visit of Good Bed Good Table lunch began with an “oyster panada” with a marinade tepid sea, mashed black pudding of the Guard, horseradish, carrot and orange confit (€17) and with “bluefin tuna and cecina”, which is following madeleine pinion, onions, new in a pickle and wasabi leaf. The main dishes tasted were the “rice with lobster”, with buckwheat-toasted, fresh herbs, and fresh herbs from the Ria Formosa (€49) and the almost indescribable “preached on the grill” that takes wild mushrooms, potato new, jelly of mustard seeds, patissons and argan oil (€37) a real and unexpected surprise. As was the “rice from Sado sweet” with mashed potatoes and confitura lemon sorbet and coconut (€9).
With only 18 seats inside and another outside, with capacity for 32, the Restaurant Pesca (Rua da Escola Politécnica, 27, Lisbon. Tel. 213 460 633), is an ambitious project, and with the perfect stage for that Diogo Noronha re-conquer Lisbon. The letter is creative, which has justified more than a visit.
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