Rust: a new chapter in the history of the cuisine of the minho region
A galináceo probe the carrots and brings a heart (which could be of Viana do castelo), designed in the sentences. Fish hanging on a beam, perhaps making the times of the sausages “fluttering”. A fisherman in a little boat of paper, such as the dobravam hand, in the childhood, waiting for the good news… The illustration of the letter from the Rust translates the essence of this restaurant is magical: the land and the sea, the regional products, culture and the imagination is the catalyst of creation.
After 12 years of opening, there is still a restaurant that is not satisfied, in the unlikely village of Portela, Vila Nova de Famalicão. Believes in creativity, in the kitchen “honest, genuine, hand-crafted and dynamic, that does not follow current and have with only creed to narrate a new story of cuisine minhota”.
Golden fork in the Guide Good Bed Good Table, in 2017, it can be assumed that the Rust has become the ambassador of this new look, from a room of a few tables, adapted from an old barn of the nineteenth XVIII. again, here, if it mirrors the soul of the kitchen, by Renato Cunha, chef and owner. Rustic and familiar as the stone walls, exquisite as the towels and the glasses, but also hot and passionate as the fireplace, challenging, strong and modern as the huge cubes of the room.
Can order à la carte or choose a tasting menu. The Menu Rust (€56, six times), the Menu cuts Portugal (€48, five times), and the Menu Minho (€40, four times), focused on the cuisine of popular Portuguese and memories of the kitchen in the village.
Ice cream octopus and caldo verde
The excellent snack of Yogurt only policeman is the wake-up taste. Inspired by the yogurt with pieces, and the cream is made with heads, and the flesh of the seafood. To drink, a Vineyard of Bouça alvarinho. Still digesting the initial impact and gets the loving “Frozen octopus”, with the right stick and everything! The protein is panada and serve with chutney of roasted peppers, sand onion and the contrast of the shrimp from the coast crunchy. Suddenly, we’re in a beach imaginary, in Portela. The informality melts the ice of fine dining and Renato also comes to the table to present the dishes. The fun continues with the classic Caldo verde in a glass to drink, with trim of corn bread toasted with olive oil. Until the flavor of the chorizo is present…
The end of the entries, the institution Cod with all. It transforms this classic into a purified and elegant salad cold. Includes the earthy cream of grain, the acidity of the onions in pickle, quail egg, carrot, “is a mixture of various ” carrots”, microverdes and flowers. It is a compliment to the technique and serves in the “half moon”, a dish made by a local craftsman.
The sea Bass and The Bras asparagus with egg, homemade is the newness of the land and the sea, sublimated by the foie gras, monkfish and chutney mushrooms boletus. Harmonizes with a Quinta de Covela, according to the green minho in the evening. Another new bet is the Cod christmas, confit in olive oil, mousse of potato and gelatin from cod.
Cut the flavors with citrus and bitter almond and it is, however, suggested a Cottas tinto douro, also a small production, with two acres. Renato gives space in a letter to wines “not-so-usual and less commercial, but possible surprises”. Married perfectly with the cheek of the pig and its tasty vegetables, sautéed in the fat from the pork.
Come the vinegar
The Portuguese Cheeses, of S. Jorge and Azeitão, come with ice cream fig pingo de mel, crunchy dried leaves of almonds and… vinegar “Moura Alves”, an unexpected and interesting touch of acidity at the end! Is right, succumbs to the pleasure of gluttony with more novelty: Fondant carrot with chilli, mint, chocolate, and loves perfect! A kitchen is a stimulant, which moves between the product, the knowledge and the narrative, and where it is allowed to dream.
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