Even in the days of the week seemingly more calm, the possibility of finding the chef Pedro Lemos to “give the gallon” on the stove is not to belittle. The tables of “his” restaurant – Pedro Lemos – awarded with a Golden Fork by the Guide Good Bed Good Table, in 2017, they tend to be well composed. And then there is that responding to challenges to dinners several hands, prepare for international meetings, and continue to test new (and happy) ways for your kitchen dynamic and creative.
It keeps the quiet elegance of the main dining room, blue basalt and stripped. Sit and on the table of the restaurant Pedro Lemos (Rua Padre Luis Cabral, 974, Porto, portugal. Tel. 220 115 986) found the towel, a glass of water and a flower. The only elements of distraction are a lizard and the swallows of Bordallo Pinheiro, “flitting freely through walls and ceilings, leading to the dream of heaven on a plate…
Made the introduction, they choose one of two tasting menus, the eight-times (€110) or ten times (€130). The comprehensive chapter of the wines is more democratic, it gives to ask only a few references, or accept the suggestions of wine pairing. The letter wine is extensive and chock full of references that are rare and top. Many are served by the glass, also benefitting from the system Coravin (without the need to remove the stopper, there being no oxidation).
The quail and the foie
Two complements of the chef Pedro Lemos the open. First, the Octopus, after the Quail, breast with egg cooked at a low temperature, organic vegetables from the garden that supplies the restaurant, and a broth made from smoked meats. Highlight the new techniques, the concern with the origin of the products and indicate the flavours are relatives of the Portuguese gastronomy.
The following is the Foie Gras terrine, caramelized and based on a gingerbread and dried fruits. Equally important, in this dish, is the presentation of the pear cooked in Madeira Wine, under the form of a cream, and also in the chutney: three textures that point to the versatility. The fruit occupies a place of prominence in this menu, as if there would be enhance later.
The sea and land
It is time to dive in cold waters… The sea comes the lobster blue, which in this version comes in the company of raviolis celery and artichoke confit, a twist that is reinforced by the fact that the broth of the lobster have been “softened”. The novelty, the greater is the proposal that follows: tuna of the Azores. Emprata with glassworth and oriental elements, miso and katsuobushi. The stuffing of shallots, wasabi, may not appeal to everyone, but the idea is to accentuate the “freshness” of the dish, explains the chief. In the next moment, the changing is protein. It may be snowy grouper, sea bass or corvina, of hook, for example. The corvina comes with clams, but also influences of other stops, without blowing sea breeze, like the white asparagus and the topinambur.
At this point, it is for the other asset recently added: the delicious beef arouquesa, matured 45 to 60 days. The dish does not deviate from that comes “from the earth”: chives, beets, truffle, salsifis and mashed horseradish compose a suggestion with the proper structure, which closes the cycle of the main moments.
After the pre-dessert, where they enter in the dialog the Blackberry, the apple and the gin, Pedro Lemos returns to the classics, with a fantastic Banana and caramelized, served with ice cream banana and mashed banana, baked in the oven with vanilla textures of lavender and the indescribable pearls of Barbeito, who give grace and much flavor to the set. A true “gemstone”, abrilhantada up by shades of “gold” towels. Amazing…
Again the fruit, to finish. The Passion fruit – another bet the recent – the “dress” of ice cream and cake, complemented with chocolate mousse black and a surprise, the curry. The spice, which is used here as it “warms up” and balances the dish, containing a little of their sweetness, says Pedro Lemos, a cook who continues to dream and to make the dinner take flight…
Guia Boa Cama Boa Mesa 2017
With the restaurant Pedro Lemos in Porto, the Good Bed Good Table continues its round of weekly by the award-winning the edition 2017 of the Guide Good Bed Good Table, when we are a few months to get to know the winners of this year. Record the list of the best, in article Guide Good Bed Good Table Restaurant on site and Belmond Reid’s Palace are due in 2017
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